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This document has the following structure: ToolsI recommend the following tools for this job:
MaterialsCable TiesUpdate July 7, 2001: I used to have some info here about what cable ties would stand up to the underhood temps on the RX-7. However, I no longer think that any kind of clamp, glue, or cable tie is necessary or desirable for holding the hoses on. I have been replacing some hoses on my car as I do various repairs and upgrades and the cable ties don't seem to help much. I have been running many of the hoses without cable ties for quite a while and I haven't had any pop off. The only exception to this recommendation is for the connections to the black plastic pressure chamber near the flattened pipe between the y-pipe and intercooler (with the stock plumbing in place). I recommend using a cable tie for each of those connections, and that a "normal" cable tie from the hardware store or auto parts store is sufficient because the connection is easy to fix if the cable tie fails. It might be hard to accept this recommendation, but it works on my car, and you can avoid a lot of hassle by not using cable ties. HoseExecutive SummaryBuy 30 feet of 4 mm hose and 8 feet (15 if you are installing a manual boost control) of 6 mm hose from Peter Farrell Supercars (PFS) [(703) 368-7959], Baker Precision [(800) 959-7757], or MazdaTrix [(562) 426-7960]. Or consider some Viton tubing; see the updates below. Update March 13, 2000:
Update July 7, 2001:
QuantityI recommend 25-30 feet of the 3.5 mm or 4 mm hose if you want to do them all and make a few mistakes. You need about 8 feet of the 6 mm hose, unless you plan to replace the pills in the wastegate and turbo pre-control lines with bleed valves. If you are adding the valves, get 15 feet. Get a bunch extra if you plan to do more work on the car in the future. Perhaps 50 ft of the small stuff and 20 feet of the bigger stuff would be good. GasketsYou may need to replace the throttle body gasket (N3A1-13-665 $12.95), the extension manifold gasket (N3A1-13-112 $12.10), and the inlet gasket on the first turbo (N3A1-13-712 $6.85). Replacing Broken PartsSolenoidsYou many need to replace solenoids if you break them, or find that they are broken or non-functional. These can be purchased from your local Mazda dealer or from owners that have removed the valves from their cars. I broke the double throttle control system solenoid (1480-13-240A) while I was removing my manifold (be careful!) and it cost me $51.55 for a new one from the dealer. Depending on the function of the valve, you may consider eliminating it from your system. If you remove the valve entirely, you will need to install a resistor so that the ECU does not report an error condition. Check ValvesI found several check valves to be either broken or questionable during my hose replacement job. The metal one connected to the purge control solenoid flowed air both ways, and I got a replacement (NF01-13-890) from the Mazda dealer for $16.20. Two of the plastic ones behaved strangely, while still providing the check function. One made noise when I blew through it in the passing direction and the other just seemed very hard to blow through. I heard one report that someone witnessed the same restricted flow behavior, but that the new replacement they got from the dealer was also hard to blow through. Nonetheless, I am replacing them with some generic check valves that I got at my local auto parts store (HELP! part #47149). I haven't run the car with them yet, so I will have to report back on how they work out. Update March 13, 2000:
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